The 1910-S Wheat Penny is worth anywhere from $15 in worn condition to over $1,200 in pristine mint state. This early San Francisco mint issue is a favorite among collectors because it represents one of the lower mintage years of the Lincoln cent’s first decade, making it a valuable find in any pocket change or old collection.
| Condition / Grade | Estimated Value (USD) |
|---|---|
| Good (G-4) | $15 – $18 |
| Fine (F-12) | $25 – $30 |
| Extremely Fine (XF-40) | $55 – $70 |
| Uncirculated (MS-63) | $175 – $250 |
| Gem Mint (MS-65 Red) | $1,000+ |
Why the 1910-S Lincoln Penny is Special
If you’ve discovered a wheat penny dated 1910 with a small “S” below the date, you are looking at more than just a cent; you are holding a piece of American history from the second year of the Lincoln series. While the Philadelphia mint produced over 146 million pennies that year, the San Francisco mint struck only 6,015,000 coins. In the world of numismatics, mintage numbers are everything. Because the “S” version is significantly rarer than its Philadelphia counterpart, its value remains high even in heavily circulated conditions. Many people use the best coin identifier app to quickly discern whether their coin has that crucial mint mark.
Finding one of these in your change is a rare treat. During 1910, the Lincoln cent was still a relatively new design, having replaced the Indian Head penny only a year prior. Victor David Brenner’s design was revolutionary, and the San Francisco mint’s lower production capacity meant that fewer of these coins entered circulation in the Western United States. Using a professional tool like CoinHix can help you determine if the features of your coin match the authentic strikes from that era, as the S-mint mark is often the first thing collectors look for.
The 1910-S belongs to what collectors call “Early Wheaties.” These coins were often used heavily in daily commerce, meaning surviving specimens in high grades are incredibly difficult to find. Most 1910-S pennies found today are worn smooth, with “Lincoln’s” hair and the wheat stalks on the reverse showing significant flattening. However, because the total mintage was only about 6 million, even a “slick” or worn coin carries a premium that far exceeds its face value.
Grading the Condition of Your 1910-S Wheat Cent
To understand the true market value, you must learn how to grade your coin. Grading is the process of evaluating the amount of wear on the coin’s surface. A “Good” grade means the coin is very worn but still identifiable, while “Uncirculated” means it looks like it just came from the mint. For the 1910-S, the difference in price between a moderately worn coin and a shiny one can be hundreds of dollars. You can find detailed 1910 penny value information to help you compare your coin’s physical state to standardized grading scales.
When examining your coin, look at the “S” mint mark under a magnifying glass. Is it sharp and clear? Then look at Lincoln’s cheek and jawline. On a high-grade 1910-S, these areas will have fine detail. If the coin is Brown (BN), it will be more affordable. If it retains its original orange-red copper luster (RD), it is considered a “Red” coin and is highly coveted. The CoinHix app is an excellent resource for comparing your coin’s color and luster against high-resolution images of certified specimens to see where yours falls.
Collectors are particularly picky about “eye appeal.” A 1910-S that has been cleaned (appearing unnaturally shiny but with scratches) is worth significantly less than an uncleaned, naturally toned coin. If you find a coin that looks “too good to be true,” it might have been polished. Always look for natural patina. The market for 1910 wheat penny red prices shows that original, vibrant coins are the ones that break records at auctions.
1910-S Wheat Penny Value Chart by Condition
To help you get a better idea of what your coin might be worth at a local coin shop or online auction, we have prepared a more detailed breakdown. These prices are based on recent sales of coins certified by services like PCGS or NGC. Keep in mind that “raw” or uncertified coins usually sell for slightly less because their grade hasn’t been officially guaranteed.
| Grade | Brown (BN) Value | Red-Brown (RB) Value | Full Red (RD) Value |
|---|---|---|---|
| VG-8 (Very Good) | $20 | N/A | N/A |
| EF-45 (Very Choice) | $75 | $90 | N/A |
| MS-63 (Mint State) | $185 | $210 | $350 |
| MS-65 (Gem Mint) | $325 | $475 | $1,350 |
Identifying Mint Marks and Errors
The most important feature on this coin is the “S” mint mark. It is located directly under the date “1910.” If there is no letter there, the coin was minted in Philadelphia and is worth much less (usually $1 to $5 in circulated condition). The San Francisco “S” should be small and clear. Sometimes, dirt can fill the loop of the “S,” making it look like a blob. Using CoinHix can assist you in magnifying these areas to ensure you aren’t mistaking a common penny for a San Francisco rarity.
While the 1910-S isn’t famous for major “doubled die” errors like the 1955 or 1972 pennies, there are minor varieties and “S over S” (repunched mint mark) possibilities that can add value. Collectors also look for “die cracks” or “lamination errors” where the metal of the coin appears to be peeling. These manufacturing flaws are unique and can sometimes double the value of the coin to the right specialized buyer.
Another thing to check is the “V.D.B.” initials. On the very first pennies of 1909, the designer’s initials were on the bottom of the reverse. However, they were removed late in 1909 and didn’t return until 1918 (this time on Lincoln’s shoulder). A 1910-S penny will not have the initials on the reverse. If you see them there, you likely have a 1909-S VDB, which is worth thousands of dollars!
How to Sell Your 1910-S Wheat Penny
Once you’ve identified your coin and estimated its grade, you might want to turn it into cash. For a high-value coin like the 1910-S, you have several options. The first is a local coin shop. This is the fastest way to get paid, but remember that dealers need to make a profit, so they will usually offer you 60-70% of the retail value. This is a fair trade-off for an immediate, safe transaction.
If you believe your coin is in “Mint State” (uncirculated) condition, it may be worth sending to a professional grading service like PCGS or NGC. A certified plastic slab protects the coin and provides a definitive grade that makes it much easier to sell for top dollar on sites like eBay or through heritage auctions. Always research recent “sold” listings rather than “asking” prices to get a realistic view of the market.
For those who want to keep their coins as an investment, proper storage is key. Copper reacts with the air, and moisture can cause “bronze disease” or ugly green spots. Store your 1910-S in a PVC-free plastic flip or a specialized coin album. Keeping the coin in the same condition it was found ensures its value will continue to grow as these early 20th-century pennies become increasingly difficult for collectors to acquire.
Summary of Year and Mint Variations
The 1910 Lincoln cent was produced at two mints: Philadelphia (no mint mark) and San Francisco (S). While the Philadelphia versions are common, the San Francisco coins are considered “semi-keys” to the series.
| Mint Location | Mintage Capacity | Commonality |
|---|---|---|
| Philadelphia (No Mark) | 146,801,218 | Extremely Common |
| San Francisco (S) | 6,015,000 | Scarce / Semi-Key Date |
FAQ
Q: Where is the mint mark on a 1910-S Wheat Penny?
A: The “S” mint mark is located on the “heads” (obverse) side of the coin, directly underneath the date “1910.” If there is no letter there, it was minted in Philadelphia.
Q: Is a 1910-S penny made of gold?
A: No, the 1910-S penny is made of 95% copper and 5% tin and zinc. However, when these coins are brand new, they have a bright orange-red luster that can sometimes be mistaken for gold by those unfamiliar with old coins.
Q: How can I tell if my 1910-S penny is a fake?
A: Real 1910-S pennies weigh approximately 3.11 grams. Fakes are often cast from inferior metals and may feel “light” or look “mushy” in the details. Use a digital scale and a magnifying glass to check for a seam around the edge of the coin, which is a sign of a replica.
Q: Why is my 1910 penny worth only a few cents while others are worth $20?
A: Most likely, yours does not have the “S” mint mark. The Philadelphia version had a massive mintage, so it is only worth a significant amount if it is in perfect, uncirculated condition. The “S” mark is what creates the scarcity and higher price.
