The 2011-S Roosevelt Dime is worth anywhere from $3 in typical proof condition to over $50 in perfect Gem Deep Cameo state. While you likely won’t find this specific “S” mint mark coin in your pocket change, it remains a favorite for collectors due to its mirror-like finish and sharp design details.
| Condition / Grade | Estimated Value |
|---|---|
| PR 65 (Proof) | $3.00 – $5.00 |
| PR 69 (Near Perfect) | $12.00 – $18.00 |
| PR 70 DCAM (Perfect) | $35.00 – $65.00 |
| Silver Proof Variation | $10.00 – $45.00 |
What Makes the 2011-S Roosevelt Dime Special?
If you are sorting through a collection or a “mint set” you inherited, you might notice the 2011 dime with an “S” mint mark looks significantly flashier than a standard dime. The San Francisco Mint produced these specifically for collectors, moving away from the high-speed production lines used for circulating currency in Philadelphia and Denver.
Because these were never intended for the grocery store or vending machines, finding one in your pocket is extremely rare. If you do find one, it likely means someone accidentally spent a collector’s set. To quickly verify what you have, many enthusiasts use the best coin identifier app to snap a photo and instantly determine the minting origin.
The 2011-S is distinguished by its “Deep Cameo” (DCAM) finish. This refers to the heavy contrast between the frosted portrait of Franklin D. Roosevelt and the highly polished, mirror-like background fields. Whenever you encounter these coins, it is best to handle them only by the edges, as even a small fingerprint can lower the resale value significantly. Utilizing tools like CoinHix can help you keep a digital log of your collection’s condition.
Production and Mintage of the 2011 Proof Dime
In 2011, the United States Mint produced millions of dimes for general circulation, but the San Francisco Mint struck an exact total of 3,450,223 proof Roosevelt dimes. While three million might sound like a large number, it is actually quite low when compared to the hundreds of millions of coins produced in Philadelphia (P) and Denver (D).
The 2011-S was released as part of the annual Proof Set and the Silver Proof Set. Because these sets were protected in plastic lenses, most surviving 2011-S dimes are in pristine condition. However, the market for 2011 Roosevelt dimes is segmented by the material used—copper-nickel vs. 90% silver—and the specific grade assigned by third-party grading services like PCGS or NGC.
| Mint Mark & Type | Mintage Figure | Common Value |
|---|---|---|
| 2011-P (Philadelphia) | 702,000,000 | $0.10 (Face Value) |
| 2011-D (Denver) | 800,500,000 | $0.10 (Face Value) |
| 2011-S (Clad Proof) | 3,450,223 | $3.00 – $7.00 |
| 2011-S (Silver Proof) | Included in S total | $10.00+ |
Composition Differences: Clad vs. Silver
There are two distinct types of the 2011-S dime, and knowing which one you have is crucial for determining the 2011 dime value and rarity. The first is the “Clad” version, which is composed of 75% copper and 25% nickel over a pure copper core. This has the same weight (2.268 grams) as a standard dime.
The second version is the Silver Proof. This coin is composed of 90% silver and 10% copper. These are much more desirable to collectors not just for their numismatic value, but for their precious metal content. A silver proof weighs slightly more at 2.50 grams. If you look at the edge of the coin, a clad dime will show a copper-colored stripe, while the silver proof will be solid silver throughout.
Collectors often use the CoinHix app to distinguish between these two varieties by scanning the coin’s appearance and luster. Because silver has been a volatile market, the basic “melt value” of a silver 2011-S dime often starts at around $2.00, though the collector value is much higher.
Grading and the Pursuit of the Perfect PR70
In the world of coin collecting, the “Grade” is everything. For proof coins like the 2011-S, the scale goes from 1 to 70. A coin with a PR70 grade is considered “Perfect”—it has no visible flaws, scratches, or contact marks even under 5x magnification.
Most 2011-S dimes pulled directly from a mint set will grade between PR67 and PR69. However, the price jump to PR70 is substantial. While a PR69 might sell for $15, a registry-quality PR70 can fetch $50 or more at auction. Professionals look for “Full Bands” on the reverse torch, although this is usually more a factor for circulating coins than proofs.
Detailed dime pricing data for high-grade specimens shows that even the P and D mint marks can be valuable if they are in “Mint State” condition, but the “S” proof remains the most consistent in value for the 2011 year. Always check for “haziness” on the surface, as this common proof flaw can lower the grade.
| Proof Grade | Clad Value | 90% Silver Value |
|---|---|---|
| PR 67 | $4.50 | $12.00 |
| PR 68 | $7.00 | $18.00 |
| PR 69 | $15.00 | $25.00 |
| PR 70 | $35.00 | $60.00 |
Are There Any Rare 2011-S Dime Errors?
While errors are much rarer on proof coins than on business-strike coins, they can happen. The San Francisco Mint has very strict quality control for proof strikes, which are often hand-fed into the presses and struck twice to ensure maximum detail. This makes the 2011-S Roosevelt Dime a very “clean” coin.
However, collectors still look for minor “Strike Through” errors, where a piece of dust or thread got caught between the die and the planchet. There are also rare instances of “Internal Die Creases” or “Double Dies,” though no major 2011-S double die has been confirmed by major grading services yet.
If you suspect you have found an error, using CoinHix can help you compare your coin to known error samples. Finding a unique error on a proof coin can skyrocket its value from a few dollars to several hundred, as error collectors specifically target coins that should have been caught by the Mint’s inspectors.
How to Sell and Store Your 2011-S Dime
If you’ve identified that your 2011-S Roosevelt Dime is a silver proof or a perfect grade specimen, you might be wondering how to sell it for the best price. Avoid local pawn shops, as they typically only pay face value or the bare silver melt price. Instead, consider online marketplaces or specialized coin auctions.
Before selling, ensure the coin is properly stored. Proof surfaces are extremely delicate. You should use PVC-free plastic flips or “slabs” if the coin is already graded. Never clean the coin—rubbing a proof coin with a cloth will create “hairline scratches” that ruin the mirror finish and wipe away most of its collector value.
Checking the current market trends is vital. Coin values fluctuate based on the spot price of silver and the demand from Roosevelt Dime set collectors. By keeping an eye on recent sales and using digital tools, you can ensure you get the absolute top dollar for your 2011-S dime when it comes time to trade or sell.
FAQ
Q: How can I tell if my 2011-S dime is silver without a scale?
A: The easiest way is to look at the edge (the “third side”) of the coin. If you see a solid silver color with no copper stripe, it is likely the 90% silver version. If you see a reddish-brown line, it is a standard clad proof.
Q: Why isn’t my 2011-P or 2011-D dime worth more than ten cents?
A: The Philadelphia and Denver mints produced over 1.5 billion dimes in 2011. Because they were made for general use and are so common, there is no collector demand for them unless they are in absolutely flawless condition.
Q: Should I get my 2011-S dime professionally graded?
A: Professional grading costs between $20 and $50 per coin. Generally, it is only worth it if you are certain the coin will receive a “Perfect 70” grade. For most PR68 or PR69 clad dimes, the cost of grading is higher than the coin’s actual value.
Q: Is the 2011-S Roosevelt Dime rare?
A: In the world of coins, “rare” is a relative term. With over 3 million made, it isn’t rare like a 1916-D Mercury Dime, but it is much harder to find than a standard dime you’d find in your change today.