The 1979-S Type 2 Jefferson Nickel is worth anywhere from $5 in standard proof condition to over $3,500 for perfect Deep Cameo specimens. While most find these coins in old collections rather than pocket change, identifying the rare “Clear S” variety is the secret to unlocking real value.
| Condition / Grade | Estimated Market Value |
|---|---|
| PR65 Deep Cameo (Type 2) | $15 – $25 |
| PR69 Deep Cameo (Type 2) | $50 – $120 |
| PR70 Deep Cameo (Type 2) | $400 – $3,500+ |
| Bulk Proof (Type 1) | $1 – $3 |
Understanding the 1979-S Jefferson Nickel Varieties
If you have recently inherited a coin collection or found a shiny nickel in a plastic case, you might be looking at a 1979-S Proof Jefferson Nickel. During 1979, the San Francisco Mint updated its mint mark punch mid-year, creating two distinct versions: the Type 1 (Filled S) and the Type 2 (Clear S). To determine which one you have, many enthusiasts use the best coin identifier app to zoom in on the mint mark and confirm the variety.
The Type 1 mint mark looks like a blobby or “filled” letter S. The loop is almost touching the center, and the edges are soft. This was the result of a worn-out punch used for the first half of the year. Because so many were made, these are common. However, the Type 2 features a crisp, distinct S with clear bulbous ends and plenty of space within the loops. Finding a Type 2 is like finding a small treasure, as collectors are always hunting for the “Clear S” to complete their sets.
When using tools like CoinHix, you can compare your coin against high-resolution photos of both types. The Type 2 is significantly scarcer. In the late 70s, proof sets were sold by the millions to everyday Americans, but only a fraction contained the refined Type 2 punch. This scarcity is exactly why the price difference between the two is so dramatic in high grades.
How to Identify a Genuine Type 2 Clear S Mint Mark
Identification is the most critical step in valuing your 1979 nickel. You will find the “S” mint mark on the right side of the coin’s obverse, tucked behind Thomas Jefferson’s ponytail. On a Type 1 coin, the “S” looks like it was smashed or over-inked. On a Type 2, the “S” is sharp, and you can clearly see the field (the flat background of the coin) through the top and bottom loops of the letter.
The “Clear S” variety was a major improvement in production quality. Collectors value this clarity because it represents a transitional moment in US Mint history. Using an app like CoinHix can help you focus your camera lens to catch these minute details that the naked eye might miss. If the “S” looks like a solid rectangle with rounded corners, it’s Type 1. If it looks like a perfectly typed “S” from a book, you likely have the more valuable Type 2.
| Feature | Type 1 (Filled S) | Type 2 (Clear S) |
|---|---|---|
| Mint Mark Clarity | Blurred/Filled | Sharp/Clear |
| Ends of the ‘S’ | Tapered into the field | Bulbous/Square ends |
| Rarity Level | Very Common | Scarce/Desirable |
Wait, Is My 1979 Nickel a Proof?
Before getting excited about the Type 2 value, you must confirm that your nickel is actually a “Proof” coin. Proofs are specially struck for collectors and have a mirror-like finish with frosted details. They were never intended for circulation. If you found your 1979 nickel in a jar of loose change and it looks dull or scratched, it is likely a “Business Strike” from high-production mints in Philadelphia or Denver.
Business strikes do not have the Type 1 / Type 2 distinction. However, you can check the current 1979 nickel price data for coins minted in Philly (no mint mark) or Denver (D mark). These are usually worth only their face value of 5 cents unless they are in absolutely flawless condition.
Proof coins are usually found in their original plastic lenses from the US Mint. If you break one out, it is considered “impaired,” and its value drops significantly. Always handle these coins by the edges to avoid leaving fingerprints, as the oils from your skin can permanently damage the mirror finish. Proper storage is the only way to realize the full 1979 Jefferson Nickel value information when it comes time to sell to a dealer.
The “Deep Cameo” Factor in 1979-S Nickels
Professional grading services like PCGS or NGC use the term “Deep Cameo” (DCAM) to describe coins with a heavy contrast between the shiny background and the white, frosted portrait of Jefferson. For a 1979-S Type 2 to reach its maximum price potential, it must feature this intense frosting. A coin that has lost its frosting or appears “brilliant” but not “cameo” will sell for significantly less.
For those curious about the highest sales, a perfect PR70 Deep Cameo Type 2 Jefferson Nickel has sold at auction for over $3,500. This is because perfection is nearly impossible to maintain over 40+ years. Most Type 2 nickels will grade at PR68 or PR69, keeping their value in the $30 to $100 range. Using CoinHix can help you estimate your coin’s grade by comparing it to certified examples.
| Grade Level | Typical Type 1 Price | Typical Type 2 Price |
|---|---|---|
| PR67 DCAM | $4 | $25 |
| PR68 DCAM | $8 | $45 |
| PR69 DCAM | $15 | $90 |
| PR70 DCAM | $95 | $3,500+ |
Market Trends: Is Now a Good Time to Sell?
The market for modern proof coins like the 1979-S Type 2 nickel is relatively stable, but there is a growing interest in “Registry Sets.” This is a hobby where collectors compete to own the highest-graded example of every coin in a series. This competition drives the price of PR70 specimens higher and higher. If you have a Type 2 that looks absolutely flawless under a magnifying glass, it might be worth the fee to have it professionally graded.
However, for the average “Clear S” nickel you might find in an old proof set, the value is likely to stay between $15 and $50. It’s a great “gateway” coin for new collectors because it’s affordable yet has a “treasure hunt” aspect. Keeping your coin in a cool, dry place is essential. Humidity can cause spotting or “toning,” and while some collectors like colorful toning, most prefer the original white frosting of a fresh proof nickel.
Remember that a coin is only “worth” what someone will pay. Selling to a local coin shop will usually get you about 50-60% of the retail value, as the dealer needs to make a profit. If you want top dollar, selling on platforms like eBay or through specialized coin auctions is your best bet, though it requires more effort in photography and shipping.
Final Tips for New Coin Hunters
If you’re looking through a pile of nickels, don’t just look at the 1979-S. The late 70s and early 80s were a time of many transition varieties at the San Francisco Mint. The 1981-S also has a Type 1 and Type 2 variety that follow similar rules. Always keep a loupe (a small magnifying glass) or a high-quality smartphone with a macro lens nearby.
Education is your best tool. The more you know about minting errors and varieties, the more likely you are to spot a hidden gem. While 1979 nickels from the Denver and Philly mints aren’t usually worth much, keep an eye out for “Full Steps” on the back of the coin (Monticello). If a regular circulating nickel has five or six clear, unbroken steps, it can be worth hundreds of dollars to collectors, even without the “S” mint mark.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: How can I tell if my 1979-S Nickel is definitely a Type 2?
A: Look closely at the “S” mint mark. If the ends of the “S” are bulbous and clear, with distinct space between the loops and the center bar, it is a Type 2. If it looks like a blob of metal where the “S” shape is barely recognizable, it is a Type 1.
Q: Why is the PR70 grade so much more expensive?
A: In coin grading, PR70 is “perfection.” For a coin that is over 40 years old, having zero scratches, zero milk spots, and zero manufacturing flaws even under 5x magnification is incredibly rare. There are very few of these in existence, leading to high auction prices.
Q: Can I find a 1979-S Type 2 in my spare change?
A: It is extremely unlikely. Proof coins are sold in protective cases. If someone broke a proof coin out and spent it at a store, it would quickly become scratched and worn. Once a proof coin is “circulated,” it loses almost all its premium value, regardless of whether it’s a Type 1 or Type 2.
Q: Are there any other 1979 nickel errors I should look for?
A: Besides the Type 2 variety, look for “Off-Center” strikes or “Double Dies.” While rare in the proof series, business strikes from Philly or Denver sometimes show these errors, which can significantly increase their value to error collectors.
